Low budget travelling in Europe
In 1972, when this story took place, there were people who did not want to be part of the society and left the normal life to look for a different way of life. Many of these hippies travelled to India to start a new life. There were also people like us who were quite well integrated in the society but also wanted to see other parts of the world. Often the salaries were not enough to allow this in a normal way. For example, we earned together not more than 600 euros a month which was not enough to travel very far. However at that time a system had developed itself which made low budget travelling possible. One could travel by hitchhiking or cheap transport and at many places very cheap sleeping places were offered. In warm climates one could even sleep for free outside. These low budget travelers met at special places and recognized each other by their clothes and their hair. The photo aside shows two typically candidates prepared for low budget travelling.
Greece
Arriving by train in Greece, which was at that time a military dictatorship, we were helped in Athens by the “Tourist police” to find a very cheap sleeping place on a roof terrace in the fresh air. We visited all famous tourist attractions but we planned to go to Crete because we had heard that there was an impressive hike possible, the Samaria Gorge, which went from the top of a mountain to the coast, a walk of 5-6 hours. To Crete we went by boat, which at that time cost 5 euros if you did not reserve a sleeping place but slept on the deck together with all low budget travelers.
Most impressive on this trip was the arrival of the boat in the early morning in the old crater of the island Santorini.
Arriving by train in Greece, which was at that time a military dictatorship, we were helped in Athens by the “Tourist police” to find a very cheap sleeping place on a roof terrace in the fresh air. We visited all famous tourist attractions but we planned to go to Crete because we had heard that there was an impressive hike possible, the Samaria Gorge, which went from the top of a mountain to the coast, a walk of 5-6 hours. To Crete we went by boat, which at that time cost 5 euros if you did not reserve a sleeping place but slept on the deck together with all low budget travelers.
Most impressive on this trip was the arrival of the boat in the early morning in the old crater of the island Santorini.
In Heraklion we hitchhiked to the start of the mountain hike. The man who gave us a ride was a dangerous driver. For some reason he was always speeding up in the curves. At some point I thought it became too dangerous in the mountains and we went out of the car.
There we stood in a desert area like at the photo, except that there was one house. We could not imagine how people could live in this area. Nevertheless, standing there half an hour without success, the inhabitants came to us with a chair for Irmtraud and water melons. We were really embarrassed by their help.
Somewhat later another low budget traveler joined us, hoping that with Irmtraud at our side, we would easier get a ride. Indeed a small truck stopped. The two men invited Irmtraud to join them inside the truck while the men could sit in the back of the car. Irmtraud thought it was better to sit with us in the back. It turned out a doubtful decision because the truck had transported quicklime. As a consequence we arrived at the next stop completely white and crying because we had got the quicklime in our eyes. This was so crazy that we laughed a lot. But before going on to the Samaria Gorge we looked for a cheap hotel to clean ourselves and sleep there.
The Samaria Gorge
The next day we went to the start of the hiking trip where we spoke with some long-haired Swiss people who went on the same trip . The hike was impressive but not easy at some places and it was extremely hot.
We had water with us but that did not help anymore after a while. Fortunately at the middle of the trip we arrived at a small lake with fresh mountain water. The people who had arrived earlier were looking how we reacted. Did we dare to drink the water? Finally we all drunk the water. At such an occasion you realize how marvellous water can be.
The next day we went to the start of the hiking trip where we spoke with some long-haired Swiss people who went on the same trip . The hike was impressive but not easy at some places and it was extremely hot.
We had water with us but that did not help anymore after a while. Fortunately at the middle of the trip we arrived at a small lake with fresh mountain water. The people who had arrived earlier were looking how we reacted. Did we dare to drink the water? Finally we all drunk the water. At such an occasion you realize how marvellous water can be.
After some rest and talking with the Swiss people, we had to continue for another 3 hours. I was normally carrying our backpack, but at a moment Irmtraud took it over for 5 minutes and I made a photo of her with the backpack. Since then she claims that she was carrying the backpack all the time.
After three hours we reached the coast. I thought that this was a nice place to stay although there were no facilities for overnight, but I thought we could also sleep on the beach. Irmtraud insisted to take the boat to the next town which was leaving at the time we arrived. I accepted her wish because she had done her best on this trip. We arrived after a bumpy trip at Hora Sfakion, a small village, where we found once more a very cheap hotel. We slept again on a terrace surrounded by a lot of stars.
After three hours we reached the coast. I thought that this was a nice place to stay although there were no facilities for overnight, but I thought we could also sleep on the beach. Irmtraud insisted to take the boat to the next town which was leaving at the time we arrived. I accepted her wish because she had done her best on this trip. We arrived after a bumpy trip at Hora Sfakion, a small village, where we found once more a very cheap hotel. We slept again on a terrace surrounded by a lot of stars.
The owners of the hotel were very friendly: they organized for Irmtraud a shower with blankets and water from the garden hose. I was fed up with my long hair and cut it, but left my beard.
After three days the Swiss friends arrived. They did not take the same boat as us. We had taken the last boat. Thereafter the boat was not going for three days because of the stormy weather. When they saw me, they asked: “Why did you cut your hair?” First I said “Since I am not really a hippie, I should not behave like that.” This was a bad answer and therefore I added: “No, I am joking, I have read about the Sufis and I feel more connected with them. They have short hair and big beards.” I must admit that they did not know what to think about me.
After three days the Swiss friends arrived. They did not take the same boat as us. We had taken the last boat. Thereafter the boat was not going for three days because of the stormy weather. When they saw me, they asked: “Why did you cut your hair?” First I said “Since I am not really a hippie, I should not behave like that.” This was a bad answer and therefore I added: “No, I am joking, I have read about the Sufis and I feel more connected with them. They have short hair and big beards.” I must admit that they did not know what to think about me.
Matala Beach
After this adventure we went to the beach where the low budget people came together sleeping in the caves with fresh water sources. There we had another special encounter which we would like to report. We joined a nice group of people. One of the members was British, around 20 years old. He surprised us because he was very seriously learning French on the beach. So I asked him why he did this.
After this adventure we went to the beach where the low budget people came together sleeping in the caves with fresh water sources. There we had another special encounter which we would like to report. We joined a nice group of people. One of the members was British, around 20 years old. He surprised us because he was very seriously learning French on the beach. So I asked him why he did this.
He told me: “I am going later this month to France to work in the grape yards and I want to be able to speak with the people”. Later he told that he had failed the 11+ test which was in Great Britain the entrance exam for the secondary education. Given that he could not get further education, he was now already some years moving through Europe, working when he needed money. He seemed to us a very intelligent person that should have deserved a better chance in life but at that time the decisions based on this test were very strict.
This test has certainly made a lot of victims. The guy we met clearly was one of the victims. He did not want to do boring or manual work the rest of his life. Therefore he dropped out of the system and followed his own idea about what to do. In this way a lot of valuable contributions to society have been lost. Later the British government realized this and has abolished this system of selection.
Next stop Rhodes
After this adventure we went back to Heraklion, looked at some tourist attractions and then we took a boat to Rhodes. In the harbor we were welcomed by Mama Nina, an eldery women, who spoke Italian with us, and suggested that she had a very cheap sleeping place for us together in her house. This turned out to be her own bedroom. The rest of the house was full of people from all over the world. The best memory we have from this stay was, besides the standard tourist attractions, the talks we had with the guests late at night before going to sleep. Irmtraud was central in the discussions because she translated between the different languages: English, German, French and Italian. The story that remained in our memory forever was the story of an American soldier. He was close to the end of his service on an aircraft carrier. His task was to receive the incoming air planes. The risks of his job were such that he was extremely afraid that during this last period of his service he could have an accident and would not return home alive.
After this adventure we went back to Heraklion, looked at some tourist attractions and then we took a boat to Rhodes. In the harbor we were welcomed by Mama Nina, an eldery women, who spoke Italian with us, and suggested that she had a very cheap sleeping place for us together in her house. This turned out to be her own bedroom. The rest of the house was full of people from all over the world. The best memory we have from this stay was, besides the standard tourist attractions, the talks we had with the guests late at night before going to sleep. Irmtraud was central in the discussions because she translated between the different languages: English, German, French and Italian. The story that remained in our memory forever was the story of an American soldier. He was close to the end of his service on an aircraft carrier. His task was to receive the incoming air planes. The risks of his job were such that he was extremely afraid that during this last period of his service he could have an accident and would not return home alive.
Now to Turkey
The next boat brought us in a very short time to Turkey at the beach of Marmaris which is now a very popular tourist area, but at that time there was nothing. So we took a bus through the impressive mountains to Izmir. There we were the only guests in a student hotel and got a big room for ourselves. Since there was very little to do and to see, we decided to go to Istanbul by bus. In Istanbul at the bus station we met an elderly man who told us that he had a place for us in his hotel in the Centre. So we went with him. It seemed that he thought that we would fit well in his hotel. But we had another opinion. While papers in the room announced that the use of drugs was not permitted and could lead to “life imprisonment” all guests were completely stoned, some were junkies who probably would be lost forever. On the other hand, we saw the boss of the hotel praying on his carpet.
The next day we looked for a different hotel which was less extreme also in the center between the different mosques. Before we could look around in the town, I got such stomach problems that I could not leave the room for three days. Because Irmtraud had to eat and drink she had to go to a bar downstairs next to the hotel. She did not feel very secure because there were only men in the bar, but the owner protected her and provided her with what she needed. After three days I was better again and we could do some sightseeing. The mosques were beautiful. The Haya Sofia was just as impressive as the Gothic churches in Western Europa, while it is much older.
The next boat brought us in a very short time to Turkey at the beach of Marmaris which is now a very popular tourist area, but at that time there was nothing. So we took a bus through the impressive mountains to Izmir. There we were the only guests in a student hotel and got a big room for ourselves. Since there was very little to do and to see, we decided to go to Istanbul by bus. In Istanbul at the bus station we met an elderly man who told us that he had a place for us in his hotel in the Centre. So we went with him. It seemed that he thought that we would fit well in his hotel. But we had another opinion. While papers in the room announced that the use of drugs was not permitted and could lead to “life imprisonment” all guests were completely stoned, some were junkies who probably would be lost forever. On the other hand, we saw the boss of the hotel praying on his carpet.
The next day we looked for a different hotel which was less extreme also in the center between the different mosques. Before we could look around in the town, I got such stomach problems that I could not leave the room for three days. Because Irmtraud had to eat and drink she had to go to a bar downstairs next to the hotel. She did not feel very secure because there were only men in the bar, but the owner protected her and provided her with what she needed. After three days I was better again and we could do some sightseeing. The mosques were beautiful. The Haya Sofia was just as impressive as the Gothic churches in Western Europa, while it is much older.
Back to Greece
With a bus we went to the border of Greece to start hitchhiking again. On the border we met again several low budget travelers, but also hippie who came from India. He told us that he had become extremely relaxed there while he was smoking a joint under the window of the customs office where was written that the use of drugs was forbidden. In that sense he was very relaxed. On the other hand he was not so relaxed: before we could have reacted, he had already arranged a ride with a car which crossed the border. Leaving us, he thanked for our nice company by giving us a joint. We did not smoke this joint, but put it in our luggage and tried also to get a lift. Soon we succeeded and ended with a Frenchmen in a hotel in Thessaloniki. In the evening we went to the harbor looking at the water and smoking the joint we had received. Irmtraud and our Frenchman were so stoned that I had to guide them to the hotel. I probably did not inhale the smoke like Clinton did in the past.
Here ended this special trip. Since we had booked a flight from Athens to Amsterdam we went back to Athens and from there to the Netherlands. This was a fascinating holiday for us, very different from all our later trips we have made and also very different from how young people now travel in Europe with their Erasmus grants.
With a bus we went to the border of Greece to start hitchhiking again. On the border we met again several low budget travelers, but also hippie who came from India. He told us that he had become extremely relaxed there while he was smoking a joint under the window of the customs office where was written that the use of drugs was forbidden. In that sense he was very relaxed. On the other hand he was not so relaxed: before we could have reacted, he had already arranged a ride with a car which crossed the border. Leaving us, he thanked for our nice company by giving us a joint. We did not smoke this joint, but put it in our luggage and tried also to get a lift. Soon we succeeded and ended with a Frenchmen in a hotel in Thessaloniki. In the evening we went to the harbor looking at the water and smoking the joint we had received. Irmtraud and our Frenchman were so stoned that I had to guide them to the hotel. I probably did not inhale the smoke like Clinton did in the past.
Here ended this special trip. Since we had booked a flight from Athens to Amsterdam we went back to Athens and from there to the Netherlands. This was a fascinating holiday for us, very different from all our later trips we have made and also very different from how young people now travel in Europe with their Erasmus grants.